GUESTHOUSES City Kotwali; dm 780, r 7250-400, with AC 700, 3) This tiny old-city building with a narrow staircase and four simple rooms is a lovely budget option on account of its welcoming hosts. Gouri, who doubles as an unofficial old-city tour guide, and his wife will soon make you feel part of their young family by dishing out home-cooked meals, plenty of chai, and trustworthy travel tips. Rooms are basic – squat toilets, bucket hot water-but lovingly looked after with some nice wall paintings and bedspreads. And the bustle of old Bikaner is at your doorstep. Gouri can also help you rent bicycles (per day 120) or mopeds (per day 1200) to get

Bikaner is an excellent alternative to Jaisalmer’s camel-safari scene and is increasingly popular with travelers. There are fewer people running safaris here, so the hassle factor is quite low. Camel trips tend to focus on desert villages and interesting wildlife. Three days and two nights is a common camel safari duration, but half-day, one-day

and short overnight trips are all possible. If you’re after a serious camel trek, go for a cross-country trip to Jaisalmer (two weeks) or Kichan (about six days), famous for its concentration of large, graceful demoiselle cranes from September to March. Typical prices are around 1200 to 1800 per person per day, including overnight camping with tents, mattresses, blankets, meals, mineral water, and one camel per person. a camel cart to carry the gear (and sometimes tired riders), and a guide in addition to the camel men. Many trips start at Raisar, about 8km east of Bikaner, or Deshnok, 30km south, so start and end with a jeep trip to and from Bikaner. The standout operator in terms of quality, reliability, and transparency of what’s on offer is Vijay Singh Rathore, aka Camel Man (2231244, 9829217331: www.camelman.com: Jaipur Rd. Vijay Guest House: half-/full-/multi-day trips per person from 700/1000/1200 per day, one day-one night per person 1600). Contact him through his website or at his lovely family guesthouse. Vijay Guest House, 4km out of town. Also popular and long-established is Vino Desert Safari (2270445, 9414139245; www.vinodesertsafari.com: Vino Paying Guest House; one day-one night per person 1800, multi-day treks per person ₹1500- 2000), run by Vinod Bhojak, who runs Vino Paying Guest House. There’s a touch of the salesman about Vinod, but his tours are professional. You can also arrange higher-end camel safaris through Bikaner’s more expensive hotels. Try Bhairon Vilas or Bhanwar Ni-was. For something a little different. Vinayak Desert Safari (22202634, 9414430948: Vinayak Guest House: half-day jeep safari per person $500, full-or multi-day jeep safaris per person ₹900-2000) is run by wildlife expert Jitu Solanki. He takes people on fascinating jeep safaris around the vast surrounding desert scrubland – al- although camel rides can be arranged too – and focuses on desert mammals, reptiles, and birds. He also runs the quiet family guesthouse, Vinayak Guest House.